At 9am on a Friday, Melbourne's tongues would usually be tinged with toothpaste. Beer, however, was the flavour craved by this throng of bros brought together by the visit of one of the United States' great institutions.
Dressed in San Francisco 49ers red, LA Rams blue and every other colour of the 32-team NFL rainbow, the 100,021 fans had come to the competition's first regular season match in Australia. They were there in droves, and 90 minutes from kick-off their thirst had already forced the closure of the pop-up pub adjacent to the MCG.
The horde had paid hundreds of dollars, some even thousands, for the privilege of seeing athletes in the storied American pastime run out into Melbourne's sporting cathedral. They had come from more than 30 countries, with almost one in 10 making the trip from the US. They had waited patiently in snaking lines that peaked around 7.30am, but even then it took only 20 minutes to get past security.
These Americophiles had spent years following the sport through ESPN and the Madden series of video games, via US podcasters and fantasy football. Here they were now, living their American sporting dream, celebrating a passion that had survived in the shadows of the Australian mainstream.
It is a hobby that reflects a reverence for the nation across the Pacific, one that is based on defensive lines, rather than defence bases. Aukus, in this context, appeared a natural fit.
One man, holding four large beers, was one of few in the crowd wearing a Jacksonville Jaguars jersey, even if he admitted he was a San Diego Chargers fan. His spirits were high, and sentiment genuine, when saying the vibes were “incredibleâ€.
“I took the train here this morning and the amount of jerseys I saw was crazy,†he said, saying his name was Jarrod Wilson, who also happens to be a former Jaguars player. Alongside him was John Stockton, coincidentally one of the NBA's greatest point guards. “We've counted every team jersey that we've seen and we've hit all 32,†Wilson said.
Apart from the cornucopia of licensed merchandise, the MCG turnout was clearly different to those that attend AFL and cricket games, the traditional sporting attractions in this corner of the country. There were very few children – it was a school day after all – and if there were roughly 10,000 Americans in the crowd, there appeared to be fewer women.
Alexandra Augustinus, who was there with her husband and brother and curious to see the spectacle first hand, was the only woman in her row. She said it felt “so different†to the AFL, but was impressed by an experience heavy on entertainment and a stadium full of enthusiasm. “I've been really shocked by how many Americans have come over, that's really fun because they're all dressed up, and they are massive fans. Everyone's excited.â€
In hotels, restaurants, pubs and retailers around Melbourne's CBD, NAB predicted there would be $300m of economic activity this weekend. No one doubts this match has delivered an economic uplift – as well as showcasing Melbourne to millions of viewers overseas – but the bank would not clarify how much of that was over and above what would usually be spent. And the cost to host the match, reported to be at least $10m, is one borne by Victorian taxpayers.
Friday was the start of a four-year deal to have the NFL in Melbourne, although there may not be a match in Australia every season. The timing for next year already looks complicated given start of NFL season falls during the AFL finals. But few in attendance on Friday were concerned about next year.
Famous faces included AFL player Patrick Cripps and Jai Arrow, the NRL back rower forced into retirement due to motor neurone disease. Rugby league powerbroker Peter V'landys had also ventured into enemy territory, his own sport having gone the other way with their Las Vegas season opener.
after newsletter promotion
A mellow US anthem before kick-off was appropriate for a match that marked 25 years since the September 11 terrorist attacks. That tragedy was acknowledged by the prominence of US Marines and the Australian Defence Force, who provided a fly-over. Advance Australia Fair was sung by pop star-slash-swimmer Cody Simpson, before Eddie McGuire and G-Flip came out to toss the coin as the boos – presumably for the former Collingwood president – rained down.
Organisers had imported the clear-bag policy, which barred patrons from bringing backpacks into the ground. Instead only small transparent plastic containers were allowed, roughly the size of an A4 piece of paper. It meant fans were expected to spend almost as long at the MCG as they might in a day of Test cricket, but without the thermos of tea. Instead, the bars and food vendors – concession stands in American parlance – were jammed throughout the morning.
The narrow rectangular field meant fans were roughly 50m from the action at the halfway line, and the entire lower level spent much of the afternoon on their feet, straining on tip toes to see the action on the field. Booming through the stadium's speakers was the American announcer, who would walk through the play situation and the athletes involved; which cornerback broke up a play, or giving a reminder of the downs and yardage. Together with short music clips, the presentation delivered a relentless sensory experience, even if the contest – won easily by the 49ers 27-7 – was unmemorable.
Disney products The Jonas Brothers, one of whom missed a flight and only just arrived in time to perform, delivered a muted half-time performance. Kylie Minogue – scheduled for the AFL grand final later this month – promises a far more dazzling experience.
With the 49ers leading 10-7 at the break, the American pop trio performed a brief medley of hits. They were accompanied by the Rams cheerleaders, their three men among two dozen woman roughly the reciprocal of the crowd's gender split.
Despite their global fandom and pop success, a cover of John Farnham's 30-year-old hit You're the Voice resonated with the crowd most. It was a reminder that not everything is better in America.
